Pure Michigan Connect - Michigan's Travel and Tourism Blog

Pure Michigan Connect - Michigan's Travel and Tourism Blog

Night Moves

July 29, 2010

in Fishing, Outdoors

Dan Donarski is back – this time with a creative twist.  Check out this fly-fishing story – do you know someone who could play the starring role?

(Fly fishing after dark on rivers like the Indian and Escanaba in the UP, or the Au Sable, Manistee, or PM in the Lower, are simply pure magic. Here’s a scene that could feature you.)

Like Christmas for a young child wishing the time was now, not later. That’s what the day has been like. Instead of Christmas the wish was for nightfall, and the hopeful subsequent trout-rise.

A breeze of any kind barely rustled the leaves in the trees during the afternoon. The temperature rose so quickly into the low 90s, that a perceptible fellow may have felt the rush of air escaping through backyard thermometers as the mercury rushed higher. Even those unable to discern this could certainly feel the breezes from tempers rising even higher than the mercury.

“Perfect”, he thought sitting on an ancient fallen hemlock alongside the Indian River. Mosquitoes tormented him as they needled him as relentlessly as the sun’s heat had hours before. “Just perfect”. Even now, at just a hair past 9:30, with the clouds kissed in the hues of cotton candy, the temperature was still in the 80s. Save for the mosquito wings, that slight afternoon breeze was a distant memory.

Sweat ran down the middle of his back, across his brow, stinging his eyes as it trickled from his graying hair beneath the well-stained cap. His legs wrapped in old canvas duck waders were as wet from the sweat as if he had been wading all day in pants.

When he got to the hemlock an hour or so earlier, the deer flies and horseflies, the stable flies and black flies, seemingly all that bites and flies descended down upon him. Nothing on the river showed promise. Not even the ever present skipper brook trout, the style that come so small that once he set the hook they come skipping back at him, were out.

But that was an hour ago. The skippers were out now. Tell-tale rings from their rises expanded in ever increasing circles on the river’s still surface. Most were upstream, just behind the remnants of an old white pine that never made it to the mills in Manistique.

Over the past 20 years he had sat here, watching the pine. Each year there was less and less of it. Succumbing to the tugs of current, the crash of break-up ice, and the slow work of various mosses and lichens it was not quite what it once was. Not all that different than him. Still holding strong, but the holding was getting more and more precious.

As the cotton candy clouds turned from vivid orange to deep red he opened his fly box, choosing a scruffy looking pattern that used to be called a mouse. Tying the fly on the line in a loop knot of 10-pound test– thank God for magnifying glasses– he tested the knot with a quick heavy tug. Satisfied that the knot was right he continued to watch, and wait.

Nighthawks and whip-poor-wills slashed against the purple night sky. Above them a crescent moon slid silently further to the west like a silent canoe.

Finally he made a concession to the mosquitoes and started to apply bug dope. He was careful of the fly and the line. Using the backs of his hands as the spreaders he kept his fingers and palms repellent free. A few years ago some fly dope had come in contact with his line and the result was melted plastic and another $45 for a new line. Not to mention a ruined fishing trip upon its untimely discovery.

Just after 10 he thought he heard something in the river just upstream from his seat on the hemlock. Straining his eyes he could make out a doe and two fawns crossing the river. The doe was sure footed along the bottom while the fawns flailed away in the deeper sections, forced to swim.

The deer startled a barred owl when they came out of the river. The owl flew down the river directly in front of him, landing in a popple, or aspen tree on the other side.  Displaying its displeasure of having to move the owl’s call of “Who-cooks-for-you, who-cooks-for-you-too?” echoed through the valley. It was joined by at least three others answering that questioning call.

His ears caught the familiar sound of a big trout feeding, that unmistakable sound of a big brown coming up for a bug, or a mouse, or something substantial in that huge discourteous slurp. He had once read that the sound was not unlike a pig falling off a diving board but to him it reminded him of an old girlfriend’s father and how he slurped soup.

Not long after came another slurp from the same location, pinpointing the rise. And then another from a bit upstream of the first two. Then another from just downstream. What was a barren river just two short hours ago was no alive with feeding trout. Under the cover of darkness, and urged on by the hatch of giant mayflies, the trout had come out of their hiding places and were now feeding. He thought that his old girlfriend’s father had all his brothers with him tonight.

He moved into the water slowly, gently making his way towards the nearest soup slurper. The water felt cool against the canvass and pulled at his legs.  Playing out line by feel he measured by sound the distance and let the tattered mouse fall near the last rise.  He used mouse flies almost exclusively at night, leaving the dainty mayfly imitations to the more cultured fly anglers.

In more of a heavy swoosh than a slurp the mouse disappeared. Raising his rod quickly he could feel the heavy pulse of a big trout as it dug for the cover of an undercut bank. His reel whined, his rod arced over, his face became taught. The big brown ran for the tangle of a bak-side sweeper. Putting more pressure on the rod, and from the rod to the fish, he turned it. Now the fish bull-dogged, straining for deeper water, straining to find the current. Soon, the fish tired, and slid into weathered ash and cotton mesh net. Twenty-two inches of Indian River brown trout.

The old man cradled the fish in his hands, letting the water run through its gills, gaining its strength back. He could feel the trout grow strong, and with a shake of its head and a thrust of its tail it disappeared into the inky water.

Five minutes later he heard another big fish. Again he measured the distance with his ear and sent the mouse pattern upstream. Another slurp, another hook set. The fish was now joined to the old man. Just as quickly as it had become fastened tight to the old man, the fish became unbuttoned. And, just as quickly as the bugs and the trout became active, they just as quickly quit.

The old man went back to the hemlock and sat down. He listened as the world went to sleep. Walking back to his truck his smile was wide.

Dan Donarski is an award-winning journalist/photographer and author. He specializes in the outdoors and adventure travel. When he’s not out and about he lays his head in Sault Ste. Marie.

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While on a driving tour along the Au Sable River, Hannah Agran, Midwest Living assistant travel editor and Michigan Travel Ideas contributor, spends the night at the North Branch Outing Club near Grayling and tries her hand at fly fishing.

My husband Juan and I are somewhere north of Grayling, our cell signal fading, the sky darkening. If my printed directions fail us, who we will ask for help? Before I can answer, we see a rambling old place with a welcoming porch and warm glow from the windows. Judy Fuller pushes open the screen door to meet us.

The North Branch Outing Club once welcomed Henry Ford, Ernest Hemingway and Thomas Edison. Like us, they came to pull trout from the cold, clear stream that flows south past the inn to the Au Sable River. The Fullers bought and restored the lodge in 1997, creating a rustic retreat that breathes history and old-fashioned hospitality. (Yellowed photos of gents in waders hang in the stairwell; jars of pretzels and penny candy line the kitchen counter.) Judy sends us to bed with gingersnaps, and the gurgle of the North Branch sings us to sleep.

The next morning, we tug waders over our sneakers while Todd Fuller, Judy’s son and our guide, drags a flat-bottomed wood boat to the stream. He paddles; we soak in the beauty. Yellow iris bloom on postage-stamp islands. Birds twitter. A blue heron rises from the reeds. We wade into the stream, and Todd shows us how to loop the rod through the air, flick our wrists to mend the line, and watch where the current carries the fly.

Something nibbles, Todd shouts, I stumble backward in my oversize waders, and Juan’s laughter rings out over the water. I feel like a fool, but the trout is beautiful, speckled blue, green and orange in the palm of my hand. He doesn’t flop wildly, but seems strangely at peace with his predicament. Maybe he knows that if he waits just a minute—long enough for me to marvel—I’ll put him right back where he came from, in the cold, clear north branch of the Au Sable River.

Did Henry Ford and Thomas Edison, men who made their livings harnessing nature’s power, feel the same awe at such a tiny creature? Todd sure does. Squinting in the sun as he takes in the scene, he says, “I’ve seen a fish on a fly a billion times, but I still love every one of them.”

Hannah is the assistant travel editor at Midwest Living magazine and loves exploring the Sunrise Side of Michigan.

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Interview with David Arquette

July 26, 2010 Pure Michigan Ads

David Arquette, who is in town filming Scream 4, was kind enough to spend a few minutes talking with us about his love of Pure Michigan on Saturday.  We met up with him at Rear Ends, a clothing boutique in West Bloomfield, where his clothing line, Propr, can be purchased.
David hasn’t been shy about sharing [...]

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What should you expect to see at the 1st Annual Maker Faire Detroit?

July 21, 2010 Events & Festivals

Patricia Mooradian, President of The Henry Ford lets us know exactly what to expect from the first annual Maker Faire Detroit  this summer.
A cupcake on wheels; Fire sculptures; Handmade hats; Robots playing soccer.
What do all of these things have in common?
On July 31 and August 1, you’ll find them all together in one place when Maker [...]

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Ah, Spa-ing at Crystal Mountain Resort

July 21, 2010 Places To Stay

Kendra Williams, Midwest Living travel editor and contributor to Michigan Travel Ideas, spills the details from her recent enviable spa experience at the Crystal Mountain Resort and Spa.
I’ve been to many spas throughout the Midwest, but none of those prepared me for my experience at Crystal Mountain Resort and Spa in Thompsonville (45 minutes south [...]

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Runaway Crosses the Finish Line

July 19, 2010 Bayview

Runaway with George Zimmermann on board crossed the finish line in Mackinac of the Pure Michigan Bayview Mackinac Race at approximately 2am this morning.  Listen to his final audio blog about his experience aboard the Runaway and check out some more amazing pictures taken during the race. 
[Audio clip: view full post to listen]

The race may be over [...]

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As the Pure Michigan Bayview Mackinac Race Continues…..

July 18, 2010 Bayview

As the Pure Michigan Bayview Mackinac Race continues, listen to this audio blog from our own George Zimmermann on the Runaway from earlier today.
[Audio clip: view full post to listen]
And remember all the boats are equipped with a GPS tracking system, and we are proud to be the exclusive host of the live tracking.  Follow [...]

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Getting Ready to Start the Pure Michigan Bayview Mackinac Race

July 17, 2010 Bayview

It’s a beautiful morning in Port Huron as our own George Zimmermann and the crew of the Runaway get ready to start the Pure Michigan Bayview Mackinac Race.
Listen to George’s audio blog and check out the slide show of what is happening in Port Huron as they get ready to race.  Check in later tonight [...]

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Blue Water Fest

July 16, 2010 Pure Michigan Ads

The Pure Michigan team is on the ground at the Blue Water Fest in Port Huron. Check out these pics from the event!

Tomorrow morning, our own George Zimmermann is setting sail aboard Runaway in the Pure Michigan Bayview Mackinac Race. All the boats are equipped with a GPS tracking system, and we are proud to [...]

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Michigan: The Great Beer State

July 16, 2010 Events & Festivals

Thanks to John Palmer of www.MichiganMicrobrews.com for helping us celebrate Michigan craft beer month!
July… It’s easily one of the greatest months of the year (in my opinion). Summer vacation is in full tilt and people are out enjoying all that Michigan has to offer; the immense state parks, the vast amount of freshwater coastline, the [...]

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